Peru: A Return Journey

Spring has come and gone and with that, another beautiful Plants and Healers journey to Peru. The third trip as an organization since 2016, this was my first time joining the group, and it truly couldn’t have been any more lovely and inspiring.

Though I’d traveled to Peru a number of times before, this experience was completely different in many ways. Being immersed in the plant world, led by local guides, and educated by botanist extraordinaire and PHI Executive Director, Marc Williams, made for a journey like no other.

We first met up as a group in the Inca capitol city of Cusco, and then traveled to my favorite little pueblo in the Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo. En route, we stopped at the high-altitude weaving village of Chinchero.

Chinchero is well-known for its high-quality handmade textiles, and we were fortunate to spend some time learning about the methods used and receiving a few demonstrations.

It is mesmerizing to witness the intricacies in the weavings- from the hand-sheared wool from sheep and alpaca to the natural dyes derived from local abundant plants (and even insects!).

We watched the fabrics come to life as the locals seemed to magically weave in some of their most important and revered patterns- those symbolizing the sacred elements such as the sun and moon, the waters, and the well-respected animals such as the serpent, puma, condor, and llama. the finished products are always a delight to see, and serve many purposes, from floor mats to tablecloths, altar cloths, and clothing.

Once we departed Chinchero and arrived in Ollantaytambo, we met for lunch at Inka Tower, which boasts a view of the local archeological site and almost the entire town, nothing short of spectacular!

The food was delicious, and the company divine. We came together as a group and began to learn more about each other before embarking on a walkabout to a semi-remote sacred site, where we enjoyed a heartfelt and intentional opening ceremony.

We spent a few days in and around Ollantaytambo, exploring the vast and breathtaking remains of the Pumamarca ruins, learning about the significance of the coca plant, climbing the seemingly never-ending steps of the Ollantaytambo fortress, and taking side trips to the agricultural terraces of Moray and the pre-Inca salt mines at Maras.

The hike back to town from Maras was one of the most beautiful I’ve taken in the area- we sauntered through towering mountains, quaint local dwellings, and past the mighty Urubamba River, all as the sun prepared to set.

Our days spent in the area were, of course, filled with many plant introductions, and we learned a great deal about a variety of local plants, while also relishing in the excitement of being reacquainted with some similar to those from home.

After an incredible few days in Ollantaytambo, we boarded a train bound for the ever-famous site of Machu Picchu.

I’d visited Machu Picchu once before, though especially enjoyed this time around, as we arrived a bit later in the afternoon, and found ourselves practically alone by the end of the tour- not a common occurrence in this Inca citadel that receives thousands of visitors each day!

Machu Picchu is right at the brink of the high mountains and the jungle, which allowed us to witness a greater variety of plant specimens, and we even got to see coca growing in its (somewhat-) natural environment!

After spending a couple of nights in Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu, we prepared to begin our journey back to Ollantaytambo and onward through the Sacred Valley of the Incas.

Just as we were checking out of our hotel, we were greeted with a gorgeous rainbow hovering between the mountains at the base of this sacred citadel. A most auspicious sign, indeed!

Our train took us back through the jungle and into the higher altitudes, following the roaring Urubamba the entire way. Once back in Ollantaytambo, we proceeded through town and on to the quaint town of Pisac.

I find Pisac to be quite an interesting transnational place, as there is a community of expats intermingled within the local culture.

The main area of town surrounds the Plaza de Armas, where a bustling market commences each and every day.

While Pisac is often recounted for having a thriving Sunday market, I have found that this large bazaar of sorts seems to always be busy and full of any Peruvian art, craft, and souvenir imaginable (hot tip- when looking for the typical Peruvian-style hat, THIS is the spot!!).

Pisac has an array of delicious restaurants, and the ruins just outside of town rival those of any in the area.

Our time here was made even more special by the opportunities to truly connect in more deeply with the local culture, and with those striving to make a difference in the area.

We were most grateful to connect with Amistad Sagrada, a local non-profit organization and community center that feeds and educates many of the locals in the area.

This small, yet mighty space on a side street in town teaches indigenous children their own ancient language of Quechua, while also sprinkling in lessons in English, yoga, traditional weaving, and many other areas of interest.

We were delighted to support them with donations of school supplies, and to purchase some of their gorgeous handmade textiles.

They even treated us to some tasty muña (Andean mint) popsicles to quench our thirst and help us beat the midday heat!

They are currently doing a crowdfunding campaign for a community center which is VERY time sensitive and we highly encourage you to support it as you are called and able by offering donations or at least helping spread the word!

Another highlight of our time in Pisac included connecting with the local organization, Reviveolution, whose primary goal is to aid in supporting and bringing forth indigenous wisdom into everyday life.

The founder of this organization, Carolina Putnam, is an American woman who is married to an indigenous man in the area. Her father-in-law is of the Q’ero community, located high, high up in the Andes mountains.

Many of the elders from this community are known as medicine people, or paqos. We were delighted and quite frankly, humbled, to join this wonderful group of people in a sacred circle to convene over the sacred coca plant, learning more of its use and ritual in the local cultures, and to take part in an inspiring despacho ceremony, in which thanks and praise is given to the beloved Pachamama, or Mother Earth.

Our time in Pisac was also spent meandering the impressive Felipe Marin Moreno Botanical Gardens (so many cacti!), and taking an insightful trip to the local herbal apothecary, Tawa Apu Kuntur, where we learned more about the medicinal and spiritual aspects of many of the local plants. 

After an incredible couple of days in Pisac, we journeyed onwards to Cusco, the high-altitude capitol of the Incas, where we would spend the remainder of our time together. Cusco is the largest city we visited, with many different sites, sounds, and smells to explore.

We delighted in some of the most amazing local cuisine, visited the impressive fortress of Sacsayhuaman, and strolled through the bustling San Pedro Market– an epicenter for local produce, meats, souvenirs, herbs, and so much more!

We explored the botany of the area, including the local garden near the mercado, and ended our time together with a lovely closing circle amidst the sunshine and chirping birds at the grounds near the Temple Qorikancha.

Overall, the trip was a journey unto itself. Travel to Peru, at least for me, is less like a vacation, and more like a pilgrimage.

There is so much to be said for the beautiful energy that emanates from all around, the expansive hearts of the local people, and the plants that continue to help the communities thrive- and yet, words simply cannot convey the feeling one gets when witnessing and experiencing it all.

If you ever find yourself with the opportunity to visit the Sacred Valley of Peru, I most highly recommend doing so- you won’t be disappointed!!